2012
was full of self-realization for me. I experienced many growth
spurts, with many associated growing pains. I also enjoyed a wealth
of opportunity and wonderment.
One
of the most significant moments of wonder happened just a few weeks
ago, at about 5AM GMT on the 18th of December.
The
story begins when Joel, my visiting Canadian friend, and I were
planning our travels along the coast of Ghana. We wanted to stay in
the small town of Beyin near the border of Cote D'Ivoire, so that we could travel
via canoe to Nzulezu, the village on the water.
We
were considering staying at the Beyin Beach Resort, which we had read
about online a few days prior. A quick consultation with my Lonely Planet easily convinced us that the BBR was the spot for us: “...owners can help you arrange trips to
Nzulezu, as well as night hikes to look for turtles.”
That's
right. Moonlit walks on the beach with the owner of the resort,
looking for nesting sea turtles. From August to March there are
frequent sightings of Green, Olive Green Ridley, and Leatherback
turtles. They glide onto the shores of West Africa to lay clutches of
eggs in the warm sand. After 45-75 days, the hatchlings climb out of
their beach nests and, following their instinct to move toward the
brightest light, they hobble a strenuous hike to the bright, open
horizon. If they are lucky they get swept away by the tide before
predators (including humans) notice them. It is a fascinating
practice of regeneration.
It's worth noting that of
the seven species of sea turtle, six of them are currently endangered. They are
becoming rarer and rarer due to their vulnerable birthing process and
careless fishing practices. There's something deeply saddening about
our human involvement in this family's destruction.
Those who know me will admit that I
have been fascinated by turtles my whole life, beginning with my
foray into the martial arts via the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles at
the age of four. Joel seemed to share my interest, and we became
excited- nay, we were ecstatic in the possibility of seeing a rare
turtle in the wild.
"We
might be disappointed," Joel tempered our excitability with reason. "How do we know it's turtle season?"
"Of
course it's the season... Turtles at Christmas! They are a perfect
match!" I was alluding to the chocolates that are popular in
Canada at this time of year, trying to point you a funny coincidence.
"You know that
song?"
"Oh
sure," Joel said, playing along without really knowing what I
was talking about. "How could I forget THAT one?"
And
without skipping a beat, he burst into song! Not the song I was
thinking about, but an improvised two-minute ballad about Turtles and Christmas.
It was hilarious and we laughed all the way to sleep. We were all
hopped up on the giddy-gas of turtle prospecting, and visions of
leatherbacks danced in our dreams.
--
We
set out early the following morning. After about 5 hours of tro-tro
travel we arrived at our lodgings with a great sigh of relief. We
managed to have a tour of the stilted village that afternoon,
returned to the resort for an ocean swim, and by dinner-time it was
clear that we were the only guests of the BBR. As the night crept
in we re-focused our energy on our newfound purpose of
turtle-spotting. We approached Gifty, our host, about the legendary
night walks on the beach.
"Actually,
the owner hasn't done turtle walks this year." she told us gravely.
I
sighed. "Shoot. Is it possible that we could still see a turtle
on our own?"
"Of
course," she giggled, "but I don't know if you'll find
one." The owner of the resort walked by just as she finished
saying this. She called him over. "Patrick, these men are
interested in seeing a turtle."
Patrick
lamented that he was no longer doing turtle walks because it was so
tiring, and the sleep was so irregular. He advised us to take a walk
along the beach between 10pm and 2am, and at this time of year there
we had perhaps a 45% chance of seeing a turtle. Those were best odds
for seeing a sea turtle in the wild that I've ever had! Patrick had
renewed a sense of hope within us.
At
10pm promptly Joel and I set out along the moonlit beach. The stars
were uncountable, and if you stared long enough into the darkness a
new star would appear from the abyss. The sound of the ocean eased
life's rhythm, and I felt myself dissolve into the universe a bit. It
is a great privilege to experience such raw natural beauty.
We
felt determined that we would find a turtle. Joel sang his seasonal
turtle song. I did my best turtle call (ever heard it?). Both of us beckoned and
willed the great marine matrons to our little spot of shore. How does
a turtle choose where to nest?
As we
tried to decipher the shadows around us, I began seeing turtles
everywhere. It really is amazing just how much the mind yields to our
desires. We came upon a small mound of freshly turned sand on the
beach.
"Joel!
Look at this sand! I bet this is a nest! I bet a turtle has been
here! Ohhhh we musta just missed her-"
"Actually
Brandon, I think that's just a sand crab's burrow." Joel spoke
gently, as all good teachers do.
"Are
you sure J-"
Before
I could finish, a sand crab darted sideways out of the "nest".
I nodded in the wake of my error. Of course it was a crab's burrow.
It was far too small for a turtle, obviously. Funny that reason
itself may be mercurial.
As if
proving the point to myself, a few paces later I unwittingly did it
again. Yes, I was THAT excited to see a sea turtle. "Joel, look
at this sand! This has gotta be a nes-" I stopped myself just as
another crab darted from the burrow. And that was all it took.
It
took two crabs to start the final diminishing of our hopes, and the steam of our earlier
excitement had fully dissipated after about an hour of beach-walking and no
signs of nesting. I think it occurred to us that this was a kind of
“needle in the haystack” operation. Or like a “winning the
lottery” situation, where being in the same place and time as a sea
turtle in the wild defies some extraordinary odds.
We
chalked up our journey to an inspiring walk on the beach (still
awesome) and opted to go to bed. As we fell asleep we joked about the
turtle song and call again, having accepted our turtle-less fate. Or
so we thought.
--
My
eyelids popped open at the knock on the door. I groaned in the
darkness, unsure where I was.
"I'm
sorry to wake you," came a British accent through the window.
"But I know you were interested in seeing a turtle, and there's
one nesting on the beach right now." At the word "turtle"
I snapped back into my surroundings and recognized the voice as
Patrick, the owner of the resort.
"Whaddya
think?" asked Joel, feigning calmness. We paused briefly as reality set in before we jumped out of our beds
and chased Patrick down to the beach. In that ten-second power-walk
of anticipation I looked up at the stars and smiled. I briefly
pondered the notion that somehow we're all made of stardust.
I
froze when I reached the sand and saw the large awkward shadow crawling slowly on the
beach, against the backdrop of the twilit Atlantic. I caught myself
literally jaw-dropped, and I was overcome with amazement. Our
turtle-calling had worked!
We shyly approached her, led by Patrick. We carefully gazed at her under
a flashlight. She was about two and a half feet long and around 2 feet wide.
She had already finished her nesting, and was now carving a path through the sand back to
the water. She had bid her offspring good-bye, unsure of their
survival. Patrick himself was excited. He pointed out the five pairs
of scutes on her shell revealing herself as a Loggerhead.
According
to the Patrick, there have been no recent sightings of
Loggerhead turtles, and they are feared near extinction. The fact
that she was nesting here of all places added to the uniqueness of our situation.
The
rareness of the experience sunk deeper with every tread this treasure
of the ocean mustered. I stared in total silence, as she pulled
herself along the sand toward the waves. The crashing of the ocean
lulled me into a trance, and I dissolved completely into a state of
awe. We watched her disappear under a wave, and I imagined her
dissolving likewise into the infinite horizon at the edge of the sea.
As
I walked back to our hut I was filled with gratitude. For having
experienced something so rare and beautiful. For having been woken up
by a resort owner who cared about our experience. For having been
born of this world in the first place.
I
felt a deep appreciation for all life, and for existence itself. I
dwelled again on the inconceivable odds against our existence, let
alone the odds against having the capacity to experience such
tremendous, ephemeral beauty. In that moment of appreciation I felt
my connection with all things deepen, and contemplated the mysteries
of our planet, and the universe.
Experiencing
the presence of the loggerhead is as good an example of the
experience of wonder I can list in my recent memory. Though I try to
experience some degree of wonder on a daily, if not momentary basis, it's been a while since I've been rendered speechless for so long.
A
friend recently sent me the following short documentary. It details
the experience astronauts have when they see our planet from space.
If you have twenty minutes I highly recommend it, as you might be
able to relate.
The
astronauts discuss a profound sense of connection to the planet, and
to all things OF it. Seeing the Earth as one great, vulnerable
ecosystem, in which all of us play a part. They speak of recognizing their interdependence on all other things in this system.
It's been said that to experience wonder is to recognize yourself as part of something greater. This is why I believe wonder to be such a valuable experience. It “refreshes our cache”, disintegrating our ego into some larger community of co-existence. In the experience of wonder we stretch ourselves around new experiences and perspectives. Wonder draws our attention to the vast sphere of the unknown and unknowable, and points us to reflect the certainty of our own beliefs.
It's been said that to experience wonder is to recognize yourself as part of something greater. This is why I believe wonder to be such a valuable experience. It “refreshes our cache”, disintegrating our ego into some larger community of co-existence. In the experience of wonder we stretch ourselves around new experiences and perspectives. Wonder draws our attention to the vast sphere of the unknown and unknowable, and points us to reflect the certainty of our own beliefs.
In
this way, the experience of wonder is somehow what we all need a lot more of. We
need to recognize and value our shared existence. We need to find a
way to challenge our assumptions and extend ourselves beyond the
comforts of our beliefs. I believe we need to identify with our
shared capacity for suffering in all its forms, and find unity in the
recognition of our fragile interdependence. We are all earthlings. We
are all stardust.
Getting
along with one another requires a sort of cognitive humility. An
acknowledgement that we experience such a small scope of possibility,
and that others see and construct things differently. It requires
making space for doubt, allowing the possibility that despite my best
efforts I might be wrong. To me, this is the mindset of a willing
student. Indeed, I believe the experience of wonder depends
enormously on the mindset of the individual.
So
this New Year, I've decided to re-commit myself to the mindset of a
student of wonder. I have developed a bit of a student's oath, which
I hope to bring with me wherever 2013 brings me. Admittedly its a bit
of a draft, but I wanted to share it with you at this dawning of a
new year.
Student's Oath
Everything is connected – we (all things) are all stardust, and my thoughts, words, and actions have influence greater than I could ever know. This simple premise goes a long way down, and reminds me to see myself in all things and approach each day with a sort of universal respect.
Understanding follows curiosity – Questions help me make sense of my experience, which determine how I interpret future experiences. Curiosity drives my intellectual development, shaping my perspective, and often allowing me great personal discovery by seeing things in different ways.
Challenge all assumptions - I must recognize that the assumptions upon which my model of the world is based may not, in fact, be reflective of the absolute truth. I feel I have a responsibility to ensure that every assumption is treated as fairly and judiciously as possible, and that I have the capacity to understand the rationale underlying others' assumptions
There is always another way – Despite years of practiced linear thinking, and searching for one right answer, I have learned that different perspectives reveal many answers. I dwell in possibility.
I might be wrong - At the end of it all, there's a teaspoon of uncertainty inherent to the structure of my reality. This is, in effect, one of the most important facets of the students' mindset, and perhaps one of the most difficult to practice. Our minds don't like the anxiety that is associated with uncertainty and not knowing, so we'd sooner cling to our beliefs than admit we might be wrong. Getting used to being wrong is something I think our schools and society need to begin to model. Kathryn might agree with me.
Thank
you for considering the stories and ideas here. I've appreciated
having you along for this most fulfilling journey. I
hope all of you have enjoyed a rejuvenating holiday, and found growth
and meaning in your personal reflections of past year. Here's to sharing a
wonder-filled new year of kindness, consideration, and connection.
Yours in mystery's wisdom,
Brandon
